Equipped with an artist's label, the intensely yellow-colored 2021 Grüner Veltliner Ried Spiegel 1ÖTW Vincent (Edition Rudolf Polanszky) opens with a rich yet pure and elegant bouquet of buttercups and a sea of salts spiced with herbs. This sunny but high-elevation and late-ripening cru was picked at the end of October and promises a very fine and complex wine. The palate is rich and elegant yet also weightless, seamless, though full-bodied and tight as well as saline and tannic on the finish. This is warming but also pure, saline, finessed and tensioned Veltliner was aged in oak, and its almost weightless complexity and aging potential is that of a Burgundy cru. However, the wine is too tight and herbal and, later on, too charming and too fruity to be mistaken for a Burgundy, but in terms of structure, finesse and mouthfeel, we are quite near. This Spiegel has this kind of mystery that makes us ask: Will it ever deliver, in 10 or 20 years? Stone me if he can't do it. This is an impressive, unique and un-Austrian style of Grüner Veltliner that will make its way. Drink Date: 2030 - 2050
- Wine Advocate 96p